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Alpha hydroxy acid FAQs
AHAs are water-soluble acids largely known for their exfoliating qualities. They help remove dead skin cells and expose the newer skin below.
Alpha hydroxy acid is commonly found in serums, cleansers, toners, and other skincare products. It can also be used in higher concentrations to maximize exfoliating effects and is often used in advanced clinical peels.
The intensity and potency of these acids vary, making some types suitable only for specific skin types.
Some of the most common examples of AHAs used in skincare products include:
- Glycolic acid: Derived from sugar cane, this is the most potent AHA as it has the smallest molecules. Its properties make it the most effective option for exfoliating, and it's also known for its ability to stimulate collagen production.
- Lactic acid: Lactic acid's slightly larger molecules make it gentler than glycolic acid. This is why it's an excellent choice for sensitive skin. Additionally, lactic acid is more hydrating than glycolic acid.
- Malic acid: This is another gentle alpha hydroxy acid. Derived from fruits such as apples, it's a mild exfoliant and shares some of the characteristics of beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Malic acid is frequently used in AHA skincare due to its brightening abilities.
- Mandelic acid: The larger particles in mandelic acid make it a less irritating ingredient, similar to lactic and malic acids. Its benefits include accelerating cell turnover and providing effective exfoliation. This AHA comes from almonds.
- Citric acid: As its name suggests, citric acid is derived from citrus fruits. It's also milder and less acidic than all the other AHAs highlighted. In skincare, it's valued for its exfoliating properties when combined with other ingredients and its ability to balance the pH of formulas, preventing them from becoming too alkaline.
If you're dealing with dull, uneven skin or looking to address signs of aging, AHA skincare might be the solution for you.
Exfoliation and anti-aging
The exfoliating nature of alpha hydroxy acid means it can reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Gentle exfoliation helps reveal the smoother and healthier-looking skin underneath. AHAs work by loosening the bonds between dead cells, promoting the shedding of dull skin.
They also help stimulate collagen production, again reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Collagen fibres keep your skin plump but are lost during the natural aging process and many turn to these products to address this issue.
Discoloration
AHAs help fade dark spots and discoloration, promoting a more even skin tone. Those with sun-damaged skin often use products containing alpha hydroxy acid to help with this. Combined with its exfoliating effects, AHAs can help to make your skin appear brighter and more radiant.
Skin texture
If you suffer from uneven skin texture, an AHA regimen could improve this. When introduced correctly, it can smooth rough patches and reduce flakiness by removing buildup from the skin's surface. Your skin may feel softer as a result, helping you feel more confident. Some adopt this approach to help fade blemish marks over time.
While alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are both chemical exfoliants with skin-related benefits, there are distinct differences in how they work.
BHAs are oil-soluble rather than water-soluble. They encourage the renewal of skin cells by removing the outermost layer through exfoliation but can also enter further into the pores, where they dissolve excess oil. BHAs tend to have greater molecular weight, which means they pose less risk of irritation for some skin types. One of the most common examples is salicylic acid.
Like alpha hydroxy acid, you can find beta hydroxy acid in skincare products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and more. BHAs are less likely to increase sun sensitivity compared to AHAs. However, it's still essential to wear sunscreen daily.
Generally, AHAs like glycolic acid work well for dry or combination skin, while BHAs such as salicylic acid are better suited for oily or blemish-prone skin.
AHAs and BHAs can be combined, but caution is essential when mixing active skincare ingredients. Overuse may cause irritation or damage your skin barrier. When used correctly, BHAs dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, while AHAs loosen them to encourage natural shedding. Always apply SPF afterward to protect your skin from sun damage.
Knowing exactly which products to choose will depend on your skin type and goals. If you're unsure about how to get started, consult a dermatologist for personalized advice.
If your goal is to brighten the skin, you can combine AHAs and niacinamide to help soothe the skin and balance out the effect of AHAs. It can also help maintain hydration. Some skincare products include both AHA and niacinamide, but some people prefer to apply these separately.
Since AHAs exfoliate, they enhance the skin's ability to absorb moisturizing ingredients more effectively. You can also combine alpha hydroxy acid products with moisturizing ingredients that won't strip the skin. Examples include:
- Hyaluronic acid
- Ceramides
- Glycerin
Remember, AHA skincare products shouldn't be mixed with retinol, otherwise you risk irritating your skin. You should also steer clear of vitamin C products for this reason.
Anyone aiming to reduce fine lines and wrinkles from aging skin can benefit from introducing alpha hydroxy acid.
People suffering from dry or flaky skin may also find it beneficial. This is because once the dead skin cells are removed, moisturizing products can be absorbed deeper into the skin.
Remember to proceed with caution if you have sensitive skin. You should always introduce products at a lower concentration level so you can gradually build up your tolerance. There are various AHA ingredients available in different concentrations, allowing you to start with something milder, like lactic acid, before moving on to stronger options such as glycolic acid.
Discover alpha hydroxy acid products from ZO® Skin Health
Browse our extensive collection of products today. If you want advice on integrating alpha hydroxy acid into your skincare regimen, get in touch with our ZO® Skincare Specialists so you can choose the most effective products.
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